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The anatomy of fashion : dressing the body from the Renaissance to today
Taking different body parts in turn, this book invites us to view ourselves as we have been in the past. Arguing that analysis needs to aspire to the proliferation and playfulness of fashion itself, it both explores a different aesthetic and examines its implications. Whether in the mechanisms of production, the politics of consumption, the construction of sexuality or gender, or the formation and reformation of manners and morals, fashion is there.--[back cover]
Book
Gloves in the Early Twentieth Century: An Accessory After the Fact
The first part of this article investigates the culture of glove use at the end of the nineteenth century and the opening decades of the twentieth, when this accessory formed an indispensable part of public dress. It traces the position of gloves in relation to the performance of gender, class and gentility; considers the material reality of the garments and paraphernalia associated with their wear; and notes also the intersection of gloves with experiences of the erotic. Bearing in mind the glove's mid-century decline, the second part of the discussion looks more closely at this post-1900 period to identify transitional practices which prefigure the glove's demise, even in the midst of what seemed to be its long and unassailable success.
Journal Article
Hair : an illustrated history
Bobs, beards, blondes and beyond, Hair takes us on a lavishly illustrated journey into the world of this remarkable substance and our complicated and fascinating relationship with it. Taking the key things we do to it in turn, this book captures its importance in the past and into the present: to individuals and society, for health and hygiene, in social and political challenge, in creating ideals of masculinity and womanliness, in being a vehicle for gossip, secrets and sex. Using art, film, personal diaries, newspapers, texts and images, Susan J. Vincent unearths the stories we have told about hair and why they are important. From ginger jibes in the seventeenth century to bobbed-hair suicides in the 1920s, from hippies to Roundheads, from bearded women to smooth metrosexuals, Hair shows the significance of the stuff we nurture, remove, style and tend. You will never take it for granted again.
Book
A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in Antiquity
Whilst seemingly simple garments such as the tunic remained staples of the classical wardrobe, sources from the period reveal a rich variety of changing styles and attitudes to clothing across the ancient world. Covering the period 500BC to 800AD and drawing on sources ranging from extant garments and architectural iconography to official edicts and literature, this volume reveals Antiquity’s preoccupation with dress, which was matched by an appreciation of the processes of production rarely seen in later periods. From a courtesan’s sheer faux-silk garb to the sumptuous purple dyes of an emperor’s finery, clothing was as much a marker of status and personal expression as it was a site of social control and anxiety. Contemporary commentators expressed alarm in equal measure at the over-dressed, the excessively ascetic or at ‘barbarian’ silhouettes. Richly illustrated with 100 images, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in Antiquity presents an overview of the period with essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, visual representations, and literary representations.
eBook
A cultural history of dress and fashion
A cultural history of dress and fashion' presents an authoritative survey from ancient times to the present. This set of six volumes covers over 2,500 years of dress and fashion. Volume 1: Antiquity (500BCE-800AD), edited by Mary Harlow; Volume 2: The Medieval Age (800-1450), edited by Sarah-Grace Heller; Volume 3: The Renaissance (1450-1650), edited by Elizabeth Currie; Volume 4: The Age of Enlightenment (1650-1800), edited by Peter McNeil; Volume 5: The Age of Empire (1800-1920), edited by Denise Amy Baxter; Volume 6: The Modern Age (1920-2000+), edited by Alexandra Palmer. Each volume discusses the same key themes in its chapters: 1. Textiles 2. Production and Distribution 3. The Body 4. Belief 5. Gender and Sexuality 6. Status 7. Ethnicity 8. Visual Representations 9. Literary Representations. This structure means readers can either have a broad overview of a period by reading a volume or follow a theme through history by reading the relevant chapter in each volume. Superbly illustrated, the full six volume set combines to present the most authoritative and comprehensive survey available on dress and fashion through history.
Book
A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Empire
During the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries the production of dress shifted dramatically from being predominantly hand-crafted in small quantities to machine-manufactured in bulk. The increasing democratization of appearances made new fashions more widely available, but at the same time made the need to differentiate social rank seem more pressing. In this age of empire, the coding of class, gender and race was frequently negotiated through dress in complex ways, from fashionable dress which restricted or exaggerated the female body to liberating reform dress, from self-defining black dandies to the oppressions and resistances of slave dress. Richly illustrated with over 100 images and drawing on a plethora of visual, textual and object sources, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Empire presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to illustrate the diversity and cultural significance of dress and fashion in the period.
eBook
A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Medieval Age
During the medieval period, people invested heavily in looking good. The finest fashions demanded careful chemistry and compounds imported from great distances and at considerable risk to merchants; the Church became a major consumer of both the richest and humblest varieties of cloth, shoes, and adornment; and vernacular poets began to embroider their stories with hundreds of verses describing a plethora of dress styles, fabrics, and shopping experiences. Drawing on a wealth of pictorial, textual and object sources, the volume examines how dress cultures developed – often to a degree of dazzling sophistication – between the years 800AD to 1450AD. Beautifully illustrated with 100 images, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Medieval Age presents an overview of the period with essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, visual representations, and literary representations.
eBook
A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Enlightenment
Eighteenth-century fashion was cosmopolitan and varied. Whilst the wildly extravagant and colourful elite fashions parodied in contemporary satire had significant influence on wider dress habits, more austere garments produced in darker fabrics also reflected the ascendancy of a puritan middle class as well as a more practical approach to dress. With the rise of print culture and reading publics, fashions were more quickly disseminated and debated than ever, and the appetite for fashion periodicals went hand in hand with a preoccupation with the emerging concept of taste. Richly illustrated with 100 images and drawing on pictorial, textual and object sources, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Enlightenment presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to illustrate the diversity and cultural significance of dress and fashion in the period.
eBook
A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Renaissance
Spurred by an increasingly international and competitive market, the Renaissance saw the development of many new fabrics and the use of highly prized ingredients imported from the New World. In response to a thirst for the new, fashion’s pace of change accelerated, the production of garments provided employment for an increasingly significant proportion of the working population, and entrepreneurial artisans began to transform even the most functional garments into fashionable ones. Anxieties concerning vanity and the power of clothing to mask identities heightened fears of fashion’s corrupting influence, and heralded the great age of sumptuary legislation intended to police status and gender through dress. Drawing on sources from surviving garments to artworks to moralising pamphlets, this richly illustrated volume presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to illustrate the diversity and cultural significance of dress and fashion in the period.
eBook
'when i am in good habitt': clothes in english culture c. 1550-c 1670
Clothing occupies a complex and important position in relation to human experience. Not just utilitarian, it gives form to a society's ideas about the sacred and secular, about exclusion and inclusion, about age, beauty, sexuality and status. In short, clothing provides a filter through which we interpret our social world. Yet despite its centrality to the lives of historical subjects, dress has been little studied by mainstream history. This omission is especially noticeable in a period in which clothing had an overt and often acknowledged importance, was the topic of moral, religious and political debate, and the object of juridical control. As a step towards repairing this omission, this thesis explores some of the meanings and uses of dress within early modern culture. More specifically, it focuses principally on the upper, and the top end of the middling sort c. 1550-c.1670, and traces ways garments participated in people's lives. Clothing was used to promote health and physical well-being, the both to manage, and structure, life transitions. It helped individuals create social identities, and also to disguise them. Indeed. so culturally powerful was the manipulation of appearances that authority sought its control. Laws regulated access to the dress styles of the elite, and, through less formal strategies, techniques of disguise were kept as the perquisites of the powerful. In uncovering these experiences, this thesis argues that clothing was not just an expression of early modern culture, but in turn contributed to societal formation. Clothes shaped the configurations of the body, affected the spaces and interactions between people, and altered the perceptions of the wearers and viewers. People put on and manipulated their garments, but in turn dress exercised a reverse influence. Clothes made not just the man and the woman, but also the categories of gender itself.
Dissertation